Our “Hard Space” is designed for dirty work from metal/wood working to pottery, and everything in between.
Our “Soft Space” is designed for socializing, collaboration, entertainment, clean-work, and more.
The patio area and soft space are the perfect mix for a relaxed environment, promoting positive energy and community spirit.
We are proud to announce The Forge Greensboro is officially a federally recognized non-profit organization. Thanks to board member Greg Chabon and administrative manager April Harris for their expertise in shepherding the process, as well as all members who participated in the seemingly endless discussions that took place during many meetings. Thanks also to donors who have made gifts in the meanwhile, steadfast in their belief that we would reach this milestone. Our non-profit status is retroactively effective as of April 8th, 2013.
If you don’t already have plans this weekend, The Forge is holding the first of a two part welding workshop this Saturday!
The workshop consists of two 2-hour classes. An introduction to basic flux-core welding, the type of welding most used by amateurs because the equipment is reasonably priced. This course is for beginners. Steve Timblin will be teaching this class, and it will be held at the Paul Joseph Custom workshop building, located behind The Forge. There will be only four people per class (great teacher/student ratio!).
Sign up through Eventbrite, use the password ForgeWeld. This class is ONLY available to members of the Forge 18 years of age or older.
VERY IMPORTANT! DO NOT WEAR contact Lenses OR Polyester Clothing to the welding class!!!!!
You, the student will need to bring the following items: Welding Shield (it’s as personal as a hat), Welding Gloves, Chipping Hammer, .030 Flux Core Welding wire (One Pound Roll is plenty!) Harbor Freight and Northern Tool have these items; total cost is about $50. Optional things you may want: Welding Sleeves (The Forge MAY provide them..But not to keep!…depends on how you feel about sharing…); if you already have a Flux Core or Mig Welder, feel free to bring it. This will allow you to learn and set Your Own Machine! (And they really ARE all different!)
115 W. Lewis St.
Greensboro, NC 27406
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How a catapult becomes something more.
By: Chandler Mayo
One of the biggest concerns of new members to The Forge and current members is what they can do with the space. Coming from someone who has never had access to tools, resources, and the people that The Forge offers I know this first hand. So what do you do when you have an inventor’s block? You build a catapult of course!
You don’t actually build a catapult. What you can do is create the first thing that pops into your head, create something you previously didn’t have the tools for, or create something you don’t know how to build (since The Forge offers resources for you to learn). In this case I actually built a catapult… a penny catapult (shoots pennies and small change).
The first step was to figure out how to build it. A 3d printer to me was the fastest way to make an accurate and detailed prototype. So I made a 3d model of the catapult in two sections. One being the frame and the other being the arm. The frame consisted of a rectangular base with two inverted “V” shaped supports with a 3/32” hole at the tip of each “V”. The arm was simply about 6” long with a cylindrical indention on one side to load a penny and another 3/32” hole about 2” off center from the midpoint of the arm.
Because I am an inventor I wanted to try designing my catapult a little differently. Instead of attaching the catapult arm at the base of the frame I attached it at the hole featured at the top of the frame. At the end of the arm opposite of the penny holder I had a slot to feed a rubber band through and another slot located on the opposite side of the base.
Since I can imagine that might be hard to follow think of how a Trebuchet works but get rid of the pouch at the end, and replace the counter weight with a rubber band. The result is a device that works like a lever, pulling in one direction and launching a penny in the other.
I loaded the first version (1.0) into the printer and let it print. In just a little over an hour my parts were ready. I attached the arm using a 1/16”*1.5” nail to act as an axis for the arm and hot glued the nail in place to keep if from sliding out. The I attached a rubber band and was ready to fire.
Or so I thought… Pulling back and releasing my penny revealed two problems in my design: (1.) It flung the penny into the ground and (2.) the band popped off after every shot.
Of course it wouldn’t be a prototype if it worked perfectly the first time.
So I hot glued another nail to the front of the frame to make it release the penny earlier and glued the rubber band in place. The result was… much better than the first attempt. I continued to document the changes that would need to be made in the need revision.
Things such as:
1. Using a better rubber band.
2. Adjusting the points at where the bands attached as not to need glue.
3. Modifying the frame to release the penny earlier.
4. Thinning the base to use less plastic, and thickening it around the edges to provide better stability.
5. Modifying the arm to shoot pennies vertically.
Version 1.1 worked much better than the original. Pennies shot at 3X the distance horizontally loaded and 5X vertically loaded. The rubber band stayed on and the design looked more impressive.
In conclusion, you don’t really have to know what you’re going to do at The Forge because there is so much you can do. You create something, you inspire yourself, then you create something better and you learn from it all. Then you realize you’re still only getting started.
V1_1: Side view of first design.
V1_2: Front vide of first design.
V2_1: Side view of second design.
V2_2: Front view of second design.
V2_3: View of improved band lock on second design.
V2_4: “The Forge” logo on the front of second design.